Wright’s -- Evil Petting Zoo --

Wright’s “Evil Petting Zoo”

By Ben Wright

I’ve had a lot of requests this month for me to contribute an article about my recent (and rapidly expanding) collection of “gross” and “ugly” critters. For those of you who don’t already know (that means both of you), I’ve started up a new hobby collecting scorpions and tarantulas. Naturally, this was met with mixed reactions (okay, most of them are negative), but hopefully I can shed some light on my fascinations and share with you a number of reasons why I find these little monsters so intriguing.

For starters, I have a long history with exotic pets (typically involving reptiles, tropical birds, rodents, and insects) that goes back to my early childhood. My two oldest brothers were constantly bringing home snakes, geckos, agamas, monitors, etc. Though I was quite interested in their collections, and frequently helped them out with feeding and maintaining their cages, I never really owned a reptile of my very own. Frequently we would attend reptile shows (no, not like dog shows – more like gatherings of dealers and enthusiasts) and scope out some of the more expensive and dangerous creatures people have brought to the pet trade. While it was interesting to see many of the more uncommon varieties of reptiles, I was more and more engrossed in the booths dealing with tarantulas, scorpions, and centipedes. But my mom and dad, like any good parents, basically forbade me to have anything of that sort because of the nature of these beasts and, more importantly, the “danger” involved in housing/maintaining/handling this sort of “pet”.

Fast forward 10-12 years, I’m a big boy now, I’ve been happily married for a few years, bought a house, and I’ve also acquired an overwhelming collection of computer/video games. I felt it was time to revisit the idea of dabbling in exotic pets to add a little variety to my interests. Thankfully, I have the coolest wife in the world and she purchased an Emperor scorpion to give to me on our 4th wedding anniversary. Nice gift, huh? But, little did she know, at that very moment, she sparked a flame that has quickly spread throughout our home.

But why have something like this in your house? Well, let me tell you that this hobby isn’t for everyone. Scorpions and tarantulas aren’t exactly something you can put on a leash and take to the park. And take my advice: do not stroke, pet, cuddle, or snuggle them – the results aren’t pretty. So what can you do with them? Learn. Learn a great deal about their behaviors. Learn a great deal about nurturing something that has a completely different set of needs compared to you, a cat, or a god. Learn what separates one individual from another. They don’t require the kind of “TLC” that you’d give to a dog or a cat, but they do require a great deal of attention, to both themselves AND to numerous, tiny details.

One thing is for sure, the moment you come home from a loooooong day at work and find that your Heterometrus Longimanus is giving birth, you realize that some of your blood, sweat, and tears have finally paid off and you’ve succeeded in providing not only a habitable environment in which to observe, but you’re observations can and do contribute to the science of understanding how these creatures work.

As you can tell, I’m really getting into this topic and I think I could go on and on. So enough about the principles of why a person would want a venomous “bug” in their home… let me elaborate on the individual species themselves.

**An important thing to keep in mind - no matter what creature you’re dealing with, they are all capable of striking and causing harm and it is very important to be extremely careful no matter how little risk is involved. Frankly, I don’t encourage any hands-on interaction with these animals unless there is a need or you are absolutely willing to be harmed. Though I do handle these creatures in many of the pictures you see, I would like to point out that I’ve only done so maybe 3-4 times each – I’m simply demonstrating the calm, passive nature of these particular species in my current collection. Many exotic pets, arachnids included, should be handled and cared-for with a great deal of respect and responsibility!!!

Emperor Scorpions (Pandinus Imperator) and Asian Forest Scorpions (Heterometrus Longimanus)

…or “Rikimaru” (aka Riki) and "Gohma”

Figure 1: "Rikimaru" - Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus Imperator)

Figure 2: "Gohma" - Asian Forest Scorpion (Heterometrus Longimanus)

Not wanting wasting any space with this article, I’ve decided to discuss these two scorpions simultaneously. Most arachnid species are drastically different in terms of shape, size, environmental needs, etc., however these two actually share a number of similarities. In fact, the Asian Forest scorpion (along with their cousins, the Malaysian Forest scorpions – Hetermetrus Spinifer) is almost always misidentified in the pet trade as an Emperor scorpion because they are physically identical to the untrained eye. Despite minor differences, care and behavior of both species are identical so I’ll be referring mainly to the Emperors since they are extremely common in pet stores.

Emperor scorpions are widely regarded as the very best “beginner” species of scorpions for a number of reasons. First of all, they are quite large – actually, they are the largest species of scorpion on the planet both in terms of weight and overall length. On average they can reach up 8-8.5 inches in length from the cauda (tail) to the chelicerae (claw-like teeth-thingies at the end of the head). This measurement doesn’t include the length of the pedipalps (claws), which can add an additional 3 inches when the scorpion is in defensive position.

Like anything in nature, size doesn’t matter and scorpions are no different. While these goliaths are quite intimidating to view and to handle, they are actually more like “gentle giants.” As with most species of scorpions, Emperors and Asian Forests are nocturnal and are not normally seen moving about during the daytime. Actually, they aren’t very quick to move about at all unless they are searching for food or severely threatened. Both species are incredibly docile despite their image - it’s also worth noting that some captive-bred species have been documented to go through their entire lives without using their stingers (interesting bit of useless trivia), but that doesn’t reflect their ability to use it if provoked or threatened.

Figure 3: My scorpion enclosure, complete with live plants!

How dangerous is their sting? Honestly, it’s quite weak. Many arachnid hobbyists compare the venom’s potency to that of a regular honeybee in terms of physical reaction and duration of pain. This does not mean that Emperor venom has the same chemical composition as a bee sting – the fact that you have allergic reactions to bee stings is irrelevant to how your body may react to the toxins injected by these scorpions and vice versa. Likewise, the composition of venom varies quite differently between each species of scorpion – some will produce a slight burning sensation (like Emperors), others will produce an electrical shock up the arm (Desert Hairies), and very few will actually cause severe harm by shutting down your respiratory system or incapacitate your brain/nervous system (Arabian Deathstalkers).

There are very few documented observations of practically all scorpions, yet Emperors probably have the most research. They are native to African jungles, particularly the Congo and surrounding regions (Asian Forest scorpions are prominent around Korea). They feed mostly on small insects, rodents, and lizards in the wild and survive quite well on crickets and pinky mice (or baby mice) in captivity. Again, another interesting aspect of scorpions is that they can go as long as one whole year without food (which makes them ideal if you like to travel a lot), though a typical Emperor/Asian Forest diet is about 3 crickets per week. They are extremely hardy and can live anywhere from 10 to 15 years. Emperors can survive very well at regular room temperatures, though proper care requires that you keep them between 85 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit with variable temperature ranges throughout their enclosure. Asian Forest scorpions, on the other hand, cannot survive at room temps and need to have a constant heat source. Both species are communal and can be kept in groups of 3 or 4 in a single 10-gallon aquarium tank.

Both Asian Forest and Emperor scorpions share a common a breeding season between May and August. Mating is actually performed as a “ritual” with the male depositing a spermatophor on a rock or dry piece of bark. The male will then find a suitable female and interlock his claws with hers as he performs a “dance” which will end with the female positioning over the male’s deposit and consuming the spermatophor. Provided you have the correct climate conditions, both Emperors and Asian Forests are relatively easy to breed. The difficulty, however, is maintaining a low mortality rate between the first and fourth instars (molts). The mother will carry her young for about two weeks or until their first molt – beyond that, the young will venture out on their own in search of food and hiding spots. All scorpions give live birth rather than laying eggs like their distant tarantula cousins. Clutches number between 8 and 30 nymphs or scorplings and each nymph is about the size of a pea. I had the opportunity purchase Gohma already gravid (pregnant) and about 7 months along (gestation for scorpions is about 8 to 9 months). I should point out that scorpions are physically incapable of interspecies breeding (so Riki is not the father in case you wondered).

Figure 4: Gohma and family - aren't they the most adorable things you've ever seen?!?!?!

I’ve recently attended the Indianapolis Reptile Show at the Indiana State Fairgrounds and met up with a few contacts I’ve made in various Internet forums (http://www.insecthobbyist.com/ and http://www.arachnopets.com/) and have already made plans for most of these scorplings. I intend to keep three and sell two others to a friend of mine, but the rest of these guys will be traded for a male/female pair of “Black Top” Desert Hairies (Hadrurus Spadix) that I will attempt to breed. Desert Hairies are a sort of “graduation” in this hobby as they tend to have very aggressive behavior, are exceptionally more venomous, and will almost always attack violently (they also have a reputation for being very active in the daylight). They are very different in many respects and I could go on and on in much the same way that I have with Emperors/Asian Forests, but I’ll save the details for a future article.

Common Pinktoe or Giant Pinktoe Tarantulas (Avicularia Avicularia) and Chilean Rose (Grammastola Rosea)

…or “Kefka” and “Goltana”

Figure 5: "Kefka" - Pinktoe Tarantula (Avicularia Avicularia)

Figure 6: “Goltana” – Chilean Rose (Grammastola Rosea)

Many people seem to be more revolted by tarantulas than scorpions. Spiders are among the most feared and disrespected creatures on the planet and for good reason – they are menacing, creepy, crawly “bugs.” But they are also priceless links in the food chain. Though my interests focus primarily on scorpions, I’ve recently acquired a couple of tarantulas involuntarily – but I’m not upset by that!

Tarantulas are far easier to care for simply because there is much more information available to would-be enthusiasts than there is for scorpions. Even at that, however, there is still a great deal about them that modern science isn’t aware of. In fact, studies and observations of these creatures are severely hampered by the fact that many biologists (particularly arachnologists) can’t even agree upon many of the Latin classifications or even the scientific anatomies of practically all species. These concerns, as well as practically all knowledge of the behavior, physiological construct, and care of tarantulas are covered in second edition of The Tarantula Keeper’s Guide by Stanley and Marguerite Schultz (Barron’s Education Series, 1998). Many hobbyists swear by this book as the single most informative collection of tarantula studies both in the wild and captivity since the hobby gained a significant popularity in the early 1970s.

Tarantulas are categorized by “New World” (North, Central, and South America) and “Old World” (Europe, Africa, and Asia) and they also come in two broad flavors: arboreal (tree-dwelling) or terrestrial (land lovers). Kefka (Figure 5) is a New World arboreal Pinktoe from the Amazon Basin of South America. He is a wild caught specimen imported last March – not that that makes him anymore special since many Ts are harvested from their natural habitats for sale in pet trades or even food markets (yes, they are edible). I do frown upon wild-caught specimens in the pet trade for a number of reasons, however, it wasn’t my decision to purchase this particular creature since it was (unexpectedly) gifted to me. Many enthusiasts prefer 3rd- and 4th-generation captive-bred animals because they are more prone to resist many of the bacterial and fungal infections that they are exposed to in our local environments that may/may not be present in the jungles of the Amazon. Goltana (Figure 6) is a New World T as well, but he/she is a terrestrial tarantula (Chilean Rose) commonly found in the Atacama Desert of Chile in South America.

Regardless of origin, tarantulas are extremely hardy no matter where they come from. Both Kefka and Goltana are among the beginner class of Ts (much like the Emperor is among scorpions). Kefka, being a tree spider, requires a great deal more than the terrestrial Rose. Arboreal Ts seldom, if ever, touch the ground and will spend 99.9% of their lives high up in the less-humid canopies of the Amazon jungle, above the more humid (and dangerous) jungle floor. A commonly overlooked aspect of their care is the provision of air currents and the prevention of stagnant or stale air masses. To compensate for this, I use a cheap aquarium air pump (15-20 gph) and run a silicone hose into the top of his terrarium to keep air moving. Since he is a tree dweller, I don’t provide a great deal of substrate (height of the tank is more important), though I do use a subterranean layer of calcite sand topped with 50/50 mixture of natural peat and plain potting soil (fertilizer/pesticide FREE!). This layered combination provides water retention and allows for gradual humidification.

Figure 7: "Look! I caught a human!"

Figure 8: “I’m soooooooo PRETTY!”

On the other hand, Goltana requires much less humidity, little or no air ventilation, and a lot more substrate. Chilean Roses (or “Rosies”) will frequently burrow a couple of feet into the ground and come out periodically to hunt. Though they spend almost their entire lives on the land, they are equally equipped to handle climbing on nearly all surfaces (including glass).

But where are the webs?! Good question. In fact, I’ve been researching webbing behavior for several weeks now and I’ve discovered a few interesting possibilities. Though many insects rely mostly on preprogrammed instincts, many are still capable of exhibiting individual or random behavior. This seems to be the case with both of my Ts. There are a few spots of webbing here and there in Kefka’s enclosure and Goltana has been the only one comfortable enough with making a silk “carpet” that is commonly made to snare prey. Both species, however, are capable of producing some incredibly elaborate and ornate webs that they will use for nesting. There seems to be no correlation between individual sexes and their tendency to create nests, but many observations point to particular molting stages as the tarantulas develop. During some stages, the T is more prone to “decorate” whereas in other stages the tarantula will undergo key developments (such as sexual maturity) and any physical energy required to generate web nests is reserved for growth.

Figure 9: Custom, dual enclosure for "Ts" (Goltana [Grammastola Rosea] on the left, Kefka [Avicularia Avicularia] on the right). Note the difference in the amount of substrate.

Like the scorpions, tarantulas feed mostly on crickets, yet they can prey on just about anything they can overpower for a few seconds until their venom takes effect and incapacitates the animal (such as birds, rodents, lizards, and in some cases, fish). Pinktoes and Rosies, like the Emperors/Asian Forests, have considerably weak venom and are incredibly docile. Unlike scorpions, Ts use their fangs to inject venom rather than a stinger. So far either T has not poisoned me, but I have been “bitten”. This is when I realized (and further confirmed) that tarantulas can and will utilize their fangs to gain more stability when climbing surfaces they can’t normally grasp with their padded claws (in this case, the hair on my forearm caused Kefka to lose grip and he compensated his grasp my sinking his teeth into my arm to pull himself up). Generally, you can tell when a T is very angry by their posture. You can see the common defensive stance below in Figure 10.

Figure 10: "I said 'BROWN' crickets, fool!"

Aside from their nasty bites, the Pinktoe’s greatest defense is its ability to sprint at incredibly fast speeds. Unlike the terrestrial species of tarantulas, which are extremely slow and almost lethargic, most arboreal Ts are extremely quick and can leap small distances – a select few can even glide from treetop to treetop. A good indicator of a stressed-out Pinktoe is its willingness to ride around on your shoulder or head; a skittish or otherwise unhappy Pinktoe can and will bolt like lightening across the room and up to the ceiling when attempting to handle it (a scenario I’ve encountered only once).

All tarantulas, in general, are capable of leaping or lunging small distances without achieving a great deal in height. This makes good sense because a tarantulas opisthosoma (fat, bulging “abdomen”) is much more like a thin water balloon encasing the book lungs, digestive organs, reproductive organs and web glands, and it has little or no defensive armor properties found throughout the rest of the T’s exoskeleton armor. In fact, dropping a tarantula from just a few feet will likely result in a dead T.

So why do tarantulas look like nasty, mutated, miniature teddy bears on crack? Well, there are a few arguments regarding the principle use of tarantulas’ “hair.” To clarify, it isn’t even hair at all, but rather bristles (or in some circles, “setae”). But what’s the difference? Hair is generally regarded as a mammalian trait because it will grow and/or shed involuntarily then regenerate via a follicle (or in Mike Somers’ case, not at all). Bristles are fixed formations that are actually microscopic harpoons that only reproduce during each molt. Many tarantulas (particularly those in the New World category) use these bristles as a defense mechanism that, when utilized, can have potentially more harmful effect than their venom! Using the rear legs, many species will “kick’ the bristles into a cloud around a would-be predator. These bristles will embed themselves into the skin, eyes, and mucus membranes of an animal resulting from hive-like symptoms on the skin to loss of vision or even asphyxiation. In comparison, Old World species are considered to be more venomous (and colorful), which sparks many discussions regarding the evolutionary development between continents. Though the bristles make highly effective weapons for defending against other animals, there still remains a debate as to whether their primary function is to sense air currents like scorpions, for example.

Figure 11: Kefka spends most of his day roaming the glass or perching on top of his little tree (shown in Fig. 9).

Like scorpions and most other insects, tarantulas must molt, or shed, in order to grow. There are no set time intervals between molts and there is no specific number of molts before a T reaches full growth. Many conditions will affect molting patterns, such as temperature, food intake, and the development into sexual maturity. In captivity, it has been observed that a T kept in relatively high temperatures with an abundant amount of food will molt almost monthly whereas a T of the same species (and of the same clutch of the eggs) will molt only once or twice a year if maintained at a lower temperatures and fed a steady diet of 3-4 crickets weekly. Molting does have a great impact on lifespan as well. Though there is no set number of molts before a T reaches full growth, it is theorized that an individual tarantula’s DNA governs exactly how many molts it can endure throughout its life. Two individuals from the same clutch, maintained at different temperatures and diets as mentioned before, can achieve roughly the same number of molts (say, 55 and 58, respectively), yet the individual kept at high temps and force fed lots of crickets will live about half as long (8 to 10 years) as the other individual (about 18 to 25+ years).

So far I have made no attempts to breed tarantulas, though I have a lot of information for doing so at my fingertips. I find these creatures to be equally fascinating and ultimately prettier to observe, yet my focus remains solely on scorpions. I have no doubt that my current collection will continue to grow since they are much more economical to maintain in large numbers since they require far less room (most can be kept in Tupperware containers or 5-gallon tanks). Of the species I plan to obtain next, I’m debating whether to go with a Cobalt Blue (Figure 12) or an Usambara (aka Orange Baboon Tarantula/Sunburst Orange: Figure 13). Both are very popular “exhibit” Ts, yet they are highly regarded as “look but do NOT touch” species.

Figure 12: Cobalt Blue (Haplopelma lividum – image from Spidertalk.net)

Figure 13: Usambara (Pterinochilus Sp. – image from arachnopets.com)

Well, I hope you enjoyed this little (read: LONG) article about my new hobby. More importantly, I hope you have a better understanding why people, like myself, find these creatures to be highly enjoyable pets. I could go into much greater detail (if you couldn’t already tell) but I’ll save some of the other stuff for a future article – perhaps once I get my Black Top Desert Hairies in June. I also didn’t have enough time here to share with you my wife’s small collection of Madagascar Hissing Cockroaches. They’re fun for the whole family!

-Ben Wright